Every November, a dusty corner of Brewster County turns into the chili capital of the world. Thousands of chiliheads drive out past Big Bend to camp under desert stars, listen to live music and watch cooks chase a championship bowl of red. Here is what to know about the 2026 Terlingua cookoffs, including the part that confuses a lot of first-timers: there are two of them.
Yes, there are two Terlingua chili cookoffs
The tradition started in 1967, when Dallas newspaperman Frank X. Tolbert and friends staged a chili showdown in the old mining town of Terlingua. Texas chili man Wick Fowler squared off against New York humorist H. Allen Smith, and the contest famously ended without a clear winner. That tongue-in-cheek duel grew into an annual gathering.
By the early 1980s, a disagreement over who could compete split the crowd. From 1983 on, Terlingua has hosted two separate cookoffs on the same November weekend, just a few miles apart on the same highway. Both trace their roots to that first 1967 contest, and both use the word “Terlingua” and “International” in their names, which is why folks mix them up.
- The CASI championship: Run by the Chili Appreciation Society International at its own ranch, Rancho CASI de los Chisos. This is the big competitive event, where cooks earn their way in through CASI-sanctioned cookoffs held all year.
- The Original Terlingua cookoff: The Tolbert side of the family tree, long nicknamed “Behind the Store.” It has a looser, music-and-camping feel and keeps the original spirit of the 1967 contest alive.
2026 dates for both events
Both cookoffs are confirmed for the first week of November 2026.
- 59th Annual CASI Terlingua International Chili Championship: November 3 to 7, 2026, at Rancho CASI de los Chisos. The championship cookoff itself is Saturday, November 7. Details are on the CASI championship page.
- 59th Annual Original Terlingua International Championship Chili Cookoff: November 4 to 7, 2026, a four-night festival in Terlingua. Event info and tickets are on the Original Terlingua cookoff site.
Plenty of visitors split their time and swing by both. They are close enough on Highway 170 that you can see a good bit of each in one trip.
What happens at the CASI championship
CASI builds its week around a different contest each day. Early in the week there is a chili cookoff for CASI cooks, followed by an “anything but chili” contest on Wednesday and a margarita contest on Thursday. Friday is Scholarship Day, with salsa, buffalo wings and beans contests open to paid public entries, and the fees go to the CASI scholarship fund.
Saturday is the main event, the Terlingua International Chili Championship. It is invitational, so only cooks who qualified through the CASI point system can enter. Spectators can enjoy everything else during the week, plus live music, dancing and plenty of food vendors. CASI notes that the Saturday championship cookoff is the one event not open to spectator participation, so plan to soak in the atmosphere around it.
What happens at the Original Terlingua cookoff
The Original cookoff leans into the festival side of things. Organizers list live bands on all four nights, generally starting around 7 p.m. and running late, along with chili competition and judging. In 2026 the schedule also includes the Bob Roberts Memorial BBQ Cook-Off on Friday, November 6.
Admission is listed at $80 per person for the event, payable online by card or in cash at the gate, and it includes access to the first-come, first-served camping area. Organizers are clear that there is no water or electricity on the grounds, so come ready to rough it.
Getting there and where to stay
Terlingua sits in far West Texas near the west entrance of Big Bend National Park, and getting there is half the adventure. Plan on roughly 5 to 6 hours from San Antonio, about 4 hours from Midland, around 5 hours from El Paso and closer to 8 or 9 hours from Dallas or Houston. The last stretch is two-lane desert highway, so fill up the tank and the cooler before you leave the bigger towns.
- Rancho CASI de los Chisos is on the north side of Highway 170, about 11 miles west of Study Butte and 7 miles east of Lajitas.
- The Original cookoff grounds are listed at 22970 FM 170 in Terlingua.
Hotel and motel rooms in the Terlingua and Study Butte area are limited and go fast that weekend, and CASI notes that many regulars book next year’s room as they leave. If you can’t find a room, both events offer dry camping, and there are RV parks scattered around Study Butte and Terlingua. The Visit Big Bend tourism site is a handy place to start for lodging.
Packing tips for the high desert
Big Bend country in November can be warm in the afternoon and downright chilly after sundown, so layers are your friend. Sturdy shoes, sunscreen, a hat and a folding chair will all earn their keep. Bring shade and plenty of water, especially if you camp. Basic groceries are available in Study Butte and Lajitas, and CASI says food vendors and cold drinks are sold on its grounds during the week.
Law enforcement keeps a close eye on the highways during cookoff week, so if you plan to enjoy a cold one, camp on site or bring a designated driver. CASI also notes that emergency medical crews are on its grounds during the event, with the nearest hospital in Alpine.
Good to Know
- Where: Terlingua, Brewster County, in far West Texas near Big Bend National Park.
- CASI championship: November 3 to 7, 2026, Rancho CASI de los Chisos, off Highway 170. Championship cookoff is Saturday, November 7. Check CASI for gate ticket prices.
- Original Terlingua cookoff: November 4 to 7, 2026, 22970 FM 170. Listed at $80 per person, including first-come camping access.
- Camping: Dry camping only at both. No hookups, so bring water, shade and supplies.
- Drive time: Roughly 5 to 6 hours from San Antonio, about 4 hours from Midland.
Hours, dates and prices can change. Check the official website before you head out.
Whichever cookoff you pick, or if you do both, Terlingua in November is a Texas bucket-list trip. Come for the chili, stay for the music and the stars, and don’t be surprised if you start planning next year’s visit before you’ve even packed up camp.
