Mason, Texas: A Quiet Hill Country Square, Old Fort Mason and Some of the State’s Oldest Pit Barbecue

Mason doesn’t try very hard to get your attention, and that’s most of its appeal. North of Fredericksburg on US 87, this town of about 2,100 people has a granite courthouse, a square lined with old stone buildings, and a hill where the U.S. Army once kept watch over the frontier.

If Fredericksburg’s crowds have worn you out, Mason is the antidote.

Where Mason is

Mason is the county seat of Mason County. It’s roughly 40 miles north of Fredericksburg, which puts it about two hours from both San Antonio and Austin. The drive up US 87 through ranch country is part of the fun, especially in fall when the light gets low and golden.

The courthouse square, back from the ashes

The Mason County Courthouse is a granite Classic Revival building from 1909. On the night of Feb. 4, 2021, an arson fire gutted it, leaving only the stone walls. Thankfully, county records had already been moved out ahead of a planned renovation. After years of work, the restored courthouse reopened in 2024, and it’s once again the heart of town.

The square around it is where you’ll spend most of your time. Expect locally owned shops, tasting rooms and cafes in historic storefronts. In recent years Mason has become a quiet wine town, with tasting rooms for wineries such as Sandstone Cellars, Fly Gap and Parr on or near the square. Openings change, so check websites before you build a day around one.

The museum on the square covers local history and is home to a nearly three-pound gem-quality topaz found in Mason County, said to be the largest of its kind in North America, which was once held by the Smithsonian. Call ahead or check locally for current museum hours.

Fort Mason: where Robert E. Lee had his last U.S. command

The town grew up around Fort Mason, which the U.S. War Department established on July 6, 1851, on Post Oak Hill above Comanche Creek. It was a frontier post, and from 1856 to 1861 it was home to officers of the 2nd Cavalry, including Albert Sidney Johnston, George H. Thomas and Robert E. Lee. Fort Mason was Lee’s last command in the U.S. Army. The Army closed the fort for good in 1871, and settlers hauled off much of the stone for their own buildings.

Today, a reproduction of the officers’ quarters stands on the hill, a short drive or walk south of the courthouse around Post Hill and Rainey streets. Restoration began in 1975, and the site belongs to the Mason County Historical Society. The view over town alone is worth the climb. Hours for going inside vary, so check with the historical society or the chamber before you count on a tour.

The Odeon and Old Yeller

The Odeon Theater at 122 S. Moody St. was built in 1928 and is one of the oldest continuously operating movie houses in this part of Texas. It’s tied to one of Mason’s proudest connections: author Fred Gipson, who wrote Old Yeller, was from Mason, and the Odeon hosted a special premiere of the Disney film. Today the theater shows movies and hosts concerts and other live events.

Barbecue at Cooper’s Original Pit Bar-B-Q

This is where the Cooper’s pit tradition got its start. George Cooper opened his pit barbecue in Mason in 1953, and his son later took the style to Llano. The Mason restaurant, now Cooper’s Original Pit Bar-B-Q at 810 San Antonio St., has been owned by the Estes family since 2014.

The ordering is a little theater of its own. Meats rest on a big steel pit outside; a staffer lifts the lid so you can choose, slices your order and offers to dip it in sauce. Sides are self-serve and sold by weight, and beans have been free. As reported by Texas Monthly in April 2026, it’s open Thursday through Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and Monday, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Confirm before you drive, since small-town hours shift.

About the bats

Mason is also known for the Eckert James River Bat Cave Preserve south of town, run by The Nature Conservancy, where millions of Mexican free-tailed bats spend the summer. The preserve has posted that its 2026 bat season has ended and it is closed until summer 2027, so save that for next year.

Hours, dates and prices can change. Check the Nature Conservancy’s preserve page and call local businesses before you head out.

Mason works best as a slow day: barbecue for lunch, a walk around the square, then up the hill to Fort Mason as the sun drops. If you’re coming from the south, pair it with a stop in Comfort on the way up.

Featured photo: 25or6to4 via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.