Lockhart, Texas: A Guide to the Classic Joints in the Barbecue Capital of Texas

Plenty of Texas towns claim great barbecue, but only one has the title in writing. In 1999 the Texas Legislature named Lockhart the Barbecue Capital of Texas, and a lunch stop on the courthouse square shows why that honor stuck. If you’ve never made the trip, here’s a friendly guide to the town’s classic joints and how to make the most of a day there.

Where Lockhart is and why it smokes so much meat

Lockhart is the seat of Caldwell County, about 30 miles south of downtown Austin and roughly an hour northeast of San Antonio. The City of Lockhart describes it as sitting between those two cities, east of San Marcos off I-35. That makes it an easy half-day trip from either one.

The town’s barbecue roots go back to the cattle-drive days. After the Civil War, herds moved north through this part of Texas on the Chisholm Trail, and Lockhart grew into a ranching and market town. Kreuz’s own history traces Lockhart barbecue to an 1875 meat market that sold smoked pork and beef, and that meat-market style is still the backbone of Lockhart barbecue today: meat sold by the pound, often served on butcher paper, with simple sides.

Kreuz Market: salt, pepper and post oak

Kreuz Market (say it “Krites”) is the name many people think of first. According to the market’s own history, Charles Kreuz Sr. bought an existing Lockhart meat market in 1900 and gave it his name. The Schmidt family later took over, and in 1999 Kreuz moved from its original downtown building to a large hall on North Colorado Street. Pitmaster Roy Perez famously carried hot coals from the old pits to the new ones so the fire never really went out.

Kreuz keeps things plain on purpose. Its website says the meats are rubbed with only salt and pepper and smoked over post oak. Brisket, the original sausage, pork spare ribs and smoked turkey breast headline the menu. It’s a big, roomy place, which helps on busy weekends.

Per the official site, Kreuz is open Monday through Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Smitty’s Market: the original building

Here’s where Lockhart history gets interesting. When Kreuz moved in 1999, the family’s original 1900s-era building at 208 South Commerce Street stayed with Nina Schmidt Sells, and it reopened that same year as Smitty’s Market. So while the Kreuz name moved down the road, the old building, with its smoke-blackened pit room, carries on as Smitty’s.

Walking into Smitty’s feels like stepping back a century. You’ll typically order meat right by the fire, then head into the dining room for sides and drinks. Smitty’s menu lists cuts like shoulder clod and prime rib by the pound alongside the usual brisket, ribs and sausage. It also runs a fresh meat counter. Smitty’s website doesn’t post its hours, so check its latest listing or give the market a call before you go.

Black’s Barbecue: the family that never sold

Black’s Barbecue on North Main Street dates to 1932, during the Great Depression, and the Black family says it has run the place ever since, now into its fifth generation. Black’s has grown to include locations in Austin, New Braunfels and San Marcos, but the Lockhart original is the one with the history on its walls.

Black’s is known for brisket and sausage, and its long hours make it the easiest of the classic joints to fit into a road trip. The official site lists Sunday through Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

More smoke around town

The big three aren’t the whole story. The city’s own welcome page also points visitors to Chisholm Trail BBQ, Riley’s and Terry Black’s, so you’ll have options if you want to keep sampling. Our advice: split orders with your group so you can try a little from several places without needing a nap in the truck. Order a quarter or half pound of brisket and a link of sausage at each stop, and save room.

Between meals, take a stroll around the courthouse square. The Caldwell County Courthouse is one of the prettiest in Central Texas, and the shops and old storefronts around it make for a pleasant walk. The historic Dr. Eugene Clark Library, which the city highlights as a local landmark, is nearby too.

Tips for a Lockhart barbecue crawl

• Go on a weekday if you can. Weekends, especially around holidays, bring long lines.
• Arrive before the noon rush. Popular cuts can run out later in the day.
• Bring an ice chest if you want to carry leftovers home.
• Expect market-style service: you order meat by weight, and sides are usually ordered separately.
• Pace yourself. Smaller orders at more places make for a better day than one huge plate.

Hours, dates and prices can change. Check the official website before you head out.

Lockhart rewards anyone who takes the time to slow down, eat with their fingers and soak in a little history. Y’all bring an appetite, a few friends and maybe a cooler, and let the Barbecue Capital of Texas do the rest.

Featured photo: Dameon Hudson via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0.