Just west of San Antonio, Highway 90 rolls into a town where the street names sound French, the old houses have steep European roofs, and the bakery opens before sunrise. Castroville calls itself the “Little Alsace of Texas,” and it earns the nickname. It’s an easy half-day trip with a sweet reward waiting at Haby’s Alsatian Bakery.
Where Castroville is and how to get there
Castroville sits on the Medina River in Medina County, roughly 25 to 30 miles west of downtown San Antonio on U.S. Highway 90. Most folks can get there in about half an hour from the city. From Austin, figure on roughly two hours, and from Houston about three and a half. It makes a natural first stop on a drive farther west toward Hondo or into the Hill Country.
A little Alsace on the Texas frontier
Castroville was founded in 1844 by Henri Castro, who recruited Catholic farm families from the Alsace region along the border of France and Germany. Those settlers built the way they had back home, with thick stone walls, steep roofs and small, practical houses. A surprising number of those buildings are still here.
According to Visit Castroville, the town has 96 settlement-era houses and structures built between 1844 and 1920, and it is designated a Preserve America community. A free historic walking tour map covering more than 70 homes and buildings is available at the Steinbach Haus visitor center or the chamber office.
Haby’s Alsatian Bakery: the early-bird stop
For a lot of travelers, Castroville means one thing: a white bakery box from Haby’s Alsatian Bakery. The bakery traces its roots to 1940, when Stanley Haby opened it, and it has been turning out Alsatian-influenced baked goods on Highway 90 ever since.
Haby’s is open and going strong. Per its website, it opens Monday through Saturday from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m. and is closed on Sundays, as well as on New Year’s Day, Easter, the Fourth of July, Thanksgiving and Christmas. You’ll find it at 207 U.S. Highway 90 East, on the east side of town as you drive in from San Antonio.
The cases are full of doughnuts, honey buns and cinnamon rolls, plus a wide range of breads, from rye and pumpernickel to wheat and dinner rolls. Haby’s also does cakes, including wedding and party orders. The bakery has long been known for European specialties such as stollen and strudel, too. What’s in the case changes by day and season, so go early for the best selection and grab a loaf to take home.
More to see in Castroville
- Steinbach Haus (100 Karm St.): A 17th-century Alsatian house that was taken apart in Wahlbach, France, shipped to Texas and rebuilt here with help from Alsatian craftsmen, opening in 2002. It now serves as the town’s visitor center. More at steinbachhaus.org.
- St. Louis Catholic Church (1306 Angelo St.): Built in 1870 of native limestone and hand-hewn cypress, with stained-glass windows added in 1908. It’s a lovely sight, but remember it’s an active parish, so be respectful of services.
- Landmark Inn State Historic Site (402 Florence St.): The 1849 inn served travelers crossing Texas and now operates as a historic site. Check with Texas Parks and Wildlife for current hours and fees.
- Biry Haus (309 Paris St.): An 1850 stone settlement house that is home to the Castro Colonies Living History Center. It’s listed as open Saturday 10 a.m.–4 p.m. and Sunday 1–4 p.m., or by request.
- Castroville Regional Park: Stretched along the Medina River, with nature trails, a butterfly garden and plenty of birds. It’s a good place to stretch your legs and enjoy those pastries.
Tips for a good day trip
Come early in the day. Haby’s opens at 5 a.m., and a morning visit means a fresh selection and cooler temperatures for walking the historic district. Weekdays are quieter than Saturdays.
Plan a loop: bakery first, then the Steinbach Haus to pick up the walking-tour map, then a stroll past the old houses on Florence, Paris and Angelo streets. Finish with a picnic by the river at the regional park. The Castroville Area Chamber of Commerce keeps a community calendar if you’d like to time your visit around a festival.
Just remember: Haby’s is closed on Sundays. If your heart is set on a stollen, plan for Monday through Saturday.
Good to Know
- Where: Castroville, Medina County, about 30 minutes west of San Antonio on U.S. 90.
- Haby’s Alsatian Bakery: 207 U.S. Hwy 90 E; Monday–Saturday 5 a.m.–7 p.m.; closed Sundays and major holidays.
- Visitor center: Steinbach Haus, 100 Karm St. Free walking-tour maps there or at the chamber (1115 Angelo St.).
- Best time: Weekday mornings for the bakery; fall and spring for walking.
- Cost: Strolling the historic district is free.
Hours, dates and prices can change. Check the Haby’s Alsatian Bakery website before you head out.
Castroville is small enough to see in a morning and charming enough that you’ll want to come back. Bring an appetite, a cooler for the bread and a little curiosity about the families who carried a corner of Europe all the way to the Medina River.
Featured photo: Renelibrary via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
